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Summary:
- A discreet corridor between Tuscany and Emilia-Romagna.
- Villages shaped by stone, olive trees and routine, rather than tourism.
- A place best discovered slowly, without a fixed plan.
When people think of northern Italy, they often picture busy cities and famous routes, moving quickly from one highlight to the next. But just beyond Bologna, if you keep driving a little longer and resist the obvious turns, the landscape begins to soften.
The Lamone Valley stretches from the Apennines toward the Adriatic plain, following a river that has structured local life for centuries. It does not announce itself loudly, and that is precisely why it remains overlooked. For travelers willing to slow down, it offers a grounded way to experience northern Italy, shaped more by habit and landscape than by spectacle.
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Along the river, where the landscape changes step by step
The Lamone River does not dominate the scenery. It slips through it. Rising in the Tuscan Apennines, it flows gently northeast, linking wooded slopes, cultivated hills and open farmland before reaching the plains.
For a long time, this river marked a natural route between regions. People moved along it to trade, farm or travel. Today, roads and railways have taken over, but the logic of the landscape remains.
What makes the valley interesting is not a single dramatic view, but the way it evolves:
- Forests and chestnut trees near the mountains.
- Olive groves and vineyards on the hills.
- Broad fields and canals closer to Faenza and Russi.
You notice the transition gradually, often without realizing it at first. That sense of continuity stays with you.
Brisighella, where stone, hills and daily life meet
Brisighella feels immediately anchored to its surroundings. Built against rocky outcrops, the village does not spread out. It gathers itself.
Walking through the historic center takes little time, but invites you to slow down. Streets are narrow and shaded, opening onto small squares where local life passes through naturally. One of the most striking features is the Via degli Asini, a raised covered street once used to move goods through the village.
Above Brisighella, three rocky peaks overlook the village. Each carries a reminder of the past:
- A medieval tower with open views across the valley.
- A fortified structure built for control rather than comfort.
- A sanctuary slightly removed from the village below.
None of this feels monumental. It feels settled and lived in.
Local note
Brisighella’s olive oil is not a story told for visitors. It is part of the daily rhythm of the hills. Tasting it locally makes the connection between food and landscape immediately clear.
Walking the valley instead of driving through it
The Lamone Valley is not about long-distance trekking or physical challenge. Walking here is a way of paying attention.
Paths connect villages, cross hillsides and follow old practical routes, sometimes passing through gypsum formations protected as part of a regional park. Others simply link one place to the next, without explanation.
Common walking experiences include:
- Open hill paths with wide, calm views.
- Forest sections that offer shade and silence.
- Short routes between villages that replace the car entirely.
| Type of walk | Level | What stays with you |
| Hill paths | Easy to moderate | Space and perspective |
| Forest trails | Moderate | Silence and shade |
| Village links | Easy | Encounters and details |
Spring and autumn suit the valley best, when walking feels natural rather than planned.
Faenza, where craft blends into everyday life
As the landscape flattens, the river passes through Faenza, a town known worldwide for its ceramics, yet not defined by them alone.
Faenza feels clearly lived in. Streets are wide, squares are open and neighborhoods extend beyond the historic center. Ceramic workshops still exist, and the International Museum of Ceramics offers a clear overview of how local production fits into a wider story.
Why it matters
After the villages, Faenza adds rhythm and contrast. Cafés, markets and cultural stops enrich the journey without breaking its flow.
Around Russi, open land and quiet architecture
Further downstream, near Russi, the valley opens up. Fields stretch out, canals line the roads and traffic thins noticeably.
Historic villas and former estates appear almost unexpectedly. Once tied to agriculture, they now sit quietly in the landscape, sometimes restored, sometimes simply maintained. Nearby Roman remains remind visitors that this plain has long been worked and inhabited.
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Following the cheese roads of Savoie, one valley at a time
This part of the valley suits travelers who enjoy:
- Cycling along secondary rural roads.
- Discovering architecture without signs or queues.
- Watching rural life unfold naturally.
The Lamone Valley does not try to convince you. It does not promise highlights or must-see moments.Instead, it offers something simpler. Time to walk, to look around, to follow a river without asking where it leads next. For many travelers, that quiet freedom is exactly what stays with them long after the trip ends.
